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Assembly Tip's & Hint's

Getting Your Crossovers Modded

  • If you feel uncomfortable modding yor crossovers yourself you can contact a couple of Club Polk members Vr3/Trey here at Version 3 Audio or westmassguy/David here at DHS Speaker Service for a quote or you can ask for help in the "Vintage Speakers" section at Club Polk.

Removing Your Crossovers

  • For the 1.2's the crossover is mounted on that rectangular plate with the handles mounted just above the passive radiator. Just remove the screws and follow the chart below for labeling the wires.

  • For all others here are the steps, On the CRS+ I would suggest that you pull them all apart just make sure and label everything.

    1. Remove the passive radiator.
    2. Unplug the connectors and label them accordingly.

      Label CRS+ 2B 1C SRS 2 3.1TL 2.3/TL 1.2/TL
      P1 Input 3 Wires 3 Wires 3 Wires 5 Wires 5 Wires 5 Wires 5 Wires
      P2 Driver Output 4 Wires
      P3 Tweeter Output 2 Wires 2 Wires 4 Wires 4 Wires 2 Wires 6 Wires 8 Wires

    3. Hold the Crossover with one hand and remove the Allen head bolt from the back of the enclosure.

Soldering, Desoldering and Hot Glue

  • !! DO NOT !! cut the leads when removing your inductors, desolder them. If you cut the leads they may not be long enough to fit through the holes in the new boards. While I'm on the subject of inductors you want to pay close attention to which inductor is which. It shouldn't be to hard if you follow the placement guide and schematic for your crossover. Just remember that the inductors are located in the same place on the new boards as they are on the original boards.

  • Here's a link to some Desolderng Tips.

  • Here's a link to some Soldering Tips.

  • Here's a link on how to remove Hot Glue. NOTE: This really does work pretty good.

  • Please notice how close the F hole and the soldered hole for R1 is run together, is that going to cause a short?
    This is a question I get alot and the answer is, Yes but it doesn't matter as those two pads are on the same copper trace. See picture below.
    Green = Copper Traces
    Dark Green = The space between the copper traces
    Light Blue/Silver circles = Solder Pads.

Zip-Ties and Foam Tape

  • The Foam Tape is used to cushion the Inductors (Only for L1 & L2) and Capacitors. For L1 & L2 place a strip of Foam Tape on each side covering the holes in the board for the Zip-Ties. You'll need to use an X-ACTO knife to cut a slit for the Zip-Tie to fit through. For the Capacitors cut a strip of Foam Tape the length of the Capacitors and place it on the board where the Capacitor go's. This is done on the Capacitors along with the Zip-Ties to help reduce any ringing of the Capacitors

  • The Zip-Ties are used to hold down the Inductors and Capacitors. It is best to feed the Zip-Tie from the bottom side of the board up over the top of the component or through the center of it (in the case of L1 & L2) back down through the board and then secure on the bottom side of the board using the locking end of another Zip-Tie. You can clip the excess off.

Vertical Pin Headers, Jumpers, Resistors and Polyswitch

  • Do Not be cheap and try to reuse the pin headers from the original boards, Just get the new ones from Mouser, It's just not worth the trouble to desolder the old ones and not over heat them.

  • Optinal Vertical 3 Pin Header for The P & R Holes
    This is optional and is not requrired. I set the boards up to make use of this connector for those who have chossen to use a lower DCR SDA inductor (The big round one the board mounts to.).

  • Vertical Pin Headers Orintation
    The little nubs on the side match the out line on the circuit board.
    P1 Input, Nubs go up Nubs go up
    P2 Driver Output, Nubs go up Nubs go up
    P3 Tweeter Output, Nubs go down Nubs go down

  • Jumper Placement per Speaker. NOTE: Red X is for the CRS+/2B TL Mod only!
    Jumper CRS+ 2B 1C SRS 2 3.1TL 2.3 2.3TL 1.2 1.2TL
    J1 X X X
    J2 X X X
    J3 X X
    J4 X X
    J5 X X X X X
    E-H X X X X X X X
    I-K X X

    You can use the leads that you clip off the Resistors and Capacitors after you have them soldered in place. Now in the case of J4 you'll have to use 2 leads to make the jumper, I suggest bending a little U hook on one end of each lead then connect both leads together pinch the hooks closed and then solder the joint. You can also use wire but it will need to be stranded 16 gauge tinned copper chassis wire.

  • If you mount the Resistors laying down you should mount them so that there is about a 1/16" gap between the board and resistor.

  • Now the Polyswitch. Replace it with a resistor or a jumper, This is totally up to you and is advisable IF you can keep from cranking the hell out of the eviction control knob (i.e. Volume). A lot of guys at Club Polk do this and never have a problem. If you decide to replace the Polyswitch with a resistor I suggest starting with a 0.22 Ohm and going from there but don't go over 0.5 Ohms.

Mounting Your New Boards

  • Mounting the boards to the big inductor
    The mounting hardware can be a bit tight but it does fit. I found if you use the screw to attach the standoff to the big inductor to be the easiest way to go and as far as the nuts go I used a 1/4" drive socket for these or you can use a nut driver, it's a tight fit between C1 & L2 and the one by the "L" pad (Depending on the SDA model) but it will fit. It's a trade-off I had to make in the design in order to keep overall board size down and still accommodate all the different SDA models.

  • Note: This only affects the SDA SRS 1.2, 1.2TL and the SDA CRS+.
    Because of the size of the new boards (10" x 5 1/4" vs 5 3/4" x 4 1/4") the only place I can think of to mount them in the CRS+'s is on the top inside of the enclosure and extend the leads (P & R) to the big 16mH inductor, Check this link out CRS+ Mounting out .

    Now that brings us to the SDA SRS 1.2's, I might suggest that you could mount the board on the crossover plate plug everything in and then slide the top in at an angle then move the whole assembly up so you can slip the bottom in and then bolt in place (you should be able to fit it through the cabinet opening measuring 4-3/4" high by 14-3/16" wide) and if that doesn't work you could mount the bare crossover plate first then slide the assembled crossover through the hole for the PR and then bolt in place.


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