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Parts Placement: SDA SRS 1.2TL

Place your mouse over each component for the Info. (NOTE: If nothing shows up it's not used on your board)
P1 P2 P3 C1 C2-A C2-B C3 C5 C7 AL R0 R1 R3 R4 R5 BG L1 L2 FJ L5 IK S1 J5 EH PR

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P1 Input Connector:
5 Pin AMP Universal MATE-N-LOCK Connector UL94V-2 Nylon, mouser part # 571-6404661
P2 Driver Output Connector:
4 Pin AMP Universal MATE-N-LOCK Connector UL94V-2 Nylon, mouser part # 571-3504301"
P3 Tweeter Output Connector:
8 Pin AMP Universal MATE-N-LOCK Connector UL94V-2 Nylon, mouser part # 571-6418251
C1 13.5uF Capacitor:(Note: Custom Value)
Soniccraft doesn't have a 13.5uF Cap but you can ask Soniccraft to make one up or match one as close as possible or use a Gen-I 13uF Cap, Can be had here “www.soniccraft.com” (of course you can use any Cap you want but these boards were designed with Sonicap's in mind).
C2-A or C2-B 27uF Capacitor:
Sonicap Gen-I 27uF Cap, Can be had here “www.soniccraft.com” (of course you can use any Cap you want but these boards were designed with Sonicap's in mind), Also you only need to place it in one of the C2 spots C2-A or C2-B just leave the other one blank.
C3 12uF Capacitor:
Sonicap Gen-I 12uF Cap, Can be had here “www.soniccraft.com” (of course you can use any Cap you want but these boards were designed with Sonicap's in mind).
0.25uF Capacitor:
Soniccraft doesn't have a 0.25uF Cap but you can ask Soniccraft to make one up or match one as close as possible or use a Sonicap Gen-I 0.22uF Cap, Can be had here “www.soniccraft.com” (of course you can use any Cap you want but these boards were designed with Sonicap's in mind).
AL 12uF Capacitor:
Sonicap Gen-I 12uF Cap, Can be had here “www.soniccraft.com” (of course you can use any Cap you want but these boards were designed with Sonicap's in mind). Mount in the C6 position & connect the leads to holes A and L.
Resistor in place of a Polyswitch:
Use a Mills MRA-12 0.1 - 0.5 Ohm resistor the value is up to you but a 0.22 Ohm resistor is a good starting point and can be had here “www.soniccraft.com” (of course you can use any resistor you want but these boards were designed with Mills in mind).
R1 2.7 Ohm Resistor:
A Mills MRA-12 2.7 Ohm resistor is a good choice and can be had here “www.soniccraft.com” (of course you can use any resistor you want but these boards were designed with Mills in mind).
R3 15.0 Ohm Resistor: (Note: Mount on the back side)
A Mills MRA-12 15.0 Ohm resistor is a good choice and can be had here “www.soniccraft.com” (of course you can use any resistor you want but these boards were designed with Mills in mind).
R4 7.5 Ohm Resistor: (Note: Mount on the back side)
A Mills MRA-12 7.5 Ohm resistor is a good choice and can be had here “www.soniccraft.com” (of course you can use any resistor you want but these boards were designed with Mills in mind).
R5 11.5 Ohm Resistor: (Note: Mount on the back side)
They don't have a 11.5 but an 11 or 12 should work fine it's with in %10 or you could use a Mills MRA-12 6.0 Ohm resistor and a Mills MRA-12 5.5 Ohm resistor soldered in series (end to end). They can be had here “www.soniccraft.com” (of course you can use any resistor you want but these boards were designed with Mills in mind).
BG 22.5 Ohm Resistor:
Use a Mills MRA-12 22.5 Ohm resistor (Sonic Craft is stocking this now). They can be had here “www.soniccraft.com” (of course you can use any resistor you want but these boards were designed with Mills in mind). It connects to holes B and G
L1 2.00mH Inductor:
This comes from your original crossover board. It is in the same location and orientation on the new board as it is on the original board.
L2 1.00mH Inductor:
This comes from your original crossover board. It is in the same location and orientation on the new board as it is on the original board.
L5 0.4mH Inductor:
This comes from your original crossover board. It is in the same location and orientation on the new board as it is on the original board.
FJ 0.4mH Inductor:
This comes from your original crossover board. It is in the same location and orientation on the new board as it is on the original board. It connects to holes F and J.
IK 0.7mH Inductor:
This comes from your original crossover board. It is in the same location and orientation on the new board as it is on the original board. It connects to holes I and K
Polyswitch or Jumper:
If you decide to use a Polyswitch (nasty) or a jumper you can use the legs you clipped off the Resistors or Caps after you have soldered them in.
J5 Jumper:
Solder a jumper, You can use the legs you clipped off the Resistors or Caps after you have soldered them in.
EH Jumper:
Solder a jumper between holes E and H, You can use the legs you clipped off the Resistors or Caps after you have soldered them in.
P and R Wires:
These wires connect to the big round 16mH Inductor. NOTE: You can optionly use a 3 Pin AMP Universal MATE-N-LOCK Connector UL94V-2 Nylon, mouser part # 571-3504291, Just don't use the center pin.