Contact DHS Speaker Service

Parts Placement SDA SRS 2.3TL

Place your mouse over each component for the Info. (NOTE: If nothing shows up it's not used on your board)
P1 P2 P3 C1 C2-A C2-B C3 C5 AL R0 R3 R4 L1 L2 L5 JN S1 J5 EH KI PR

links Polk Audio DHS Speaker Service
P1 Input Connector:
5 Pin AMP Universal MATE-N-LOCK Connector UL94V-2 Nylon, mouser part # 571-6404661
P2 Driver Outnput Connector:
4 Pin AMP Universal MATE-N-LOCK Connector UL94V-2 Nylon, mouser part # 571-3504301"
P3 Tweeter Output Connector:
6 Pin AMP Universal MATE-N-LOCK Connector UL94V-2 Nylon, mouser part # 571-6418321
C1 18uF Capacitor:
Sonicap Gen-I 18uF Cap's, Can be had here “www.soniccraft.com” (of course you can use any Cap you want but these boards were designed with Sonicap's in mind).
C2-A or C2-B 27uF Capacitor:
Sonicap Gen-I 27uF Cap, Can be had here “www.soniccraft.com” (of course you can use any Cap you want but these boards were designed with Sonicap's in mind), Also you only need to place it in one of the C2 spots C2-A or C2-B just leave the other one blank.
C3 16uF Capacitor:
Sonicap Gen-I 16uF Cap's, Can be had here “www.soniccraft.com” (of course you can use any Cap you want but these boards were designed with Sonicap's in mind).
C5 8uF Capacitor:
Sonicap Gen-I 8uF Cap, Can be had here “www.soniccraft.com” (of course you can use any Cap you want but these boards were designed with Sonicap's in mind).
AL 5.8uF Capacitor:
Sonicap Gen-I 5.8uF Cap, Can be had here “www.soniccraft.com” (of course you can use any Cap you want but these boards were designed with Sonicap's in mind). It connects to holes A and L.
Resistor in place of a Polyswitch:
Use a Mills MRA-12 0.1 - 0.5 Ohm resistor the value is up to you but a 0.22 Ohm resistor is a good starting point and can be had here “www.soniccraft.com” (of course you can use any resistor you want but these boards were designed with Mills in mind).
R3 22.5 Ohm Resistor:
Use a Mills MRA-12 22.5 Ohm resistor (Sonic Craft is stocking thiss now). They can be had here “www.soniccraft.com” (of course you can use any resistor you want but these boards were designed with Mills in mind).
L1 1.75mH Inductor:
This comes from your original crossover board. It is in the same location and orientation on the new board as it is on the original board.
L2 0.875mH Inductor:
This comes from your original crossover board. It is in the same location and orientation on the new board as it is on the original board.
L5 0.4mH Inductor:
This comes from your original crossover board. It is in the same location and orientation on the new board as it is on the original board.
JN 0.3mH Inductor:
This comes from your original crossover board. It is in the same location and orientation on the new board as it is on the original board. It connects to holes J and N.
Polyswitch or Jumper:
If you decide to use a Polyswitch (nasty) or a jumper you can use the legs you clipped off the Resistors or Caps after you have soldered them in.
IK Jumper:
Solder a jumper between holes I and K, You can use the legs you clipped off the Resistors or Caps after you have soldered them in.
J5 Jumper:
Solder a jumper here, You can use the legs you clipped off the Resistors or Caps after you have soldered them in.
EH Jumper:
Solder a jumper between holes E and H, You can use the legs you clipped off the Resistors or Caps after you have soldered them in.
P and R Wires:
These wires connect to the big round 16mH Inductor. NOTE: You can optionly use a 3 Pin AMP Universal MATE-N-LOCK Connector UL94V-2 Nylon, mouser part # 571-3504291, Just don't use the center pin.