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Parts Placement SDA 2B/CRS+

Place your mouse over each component for the Info. (NOTE: If nothing shows up it's not used on your board)
P1 P2 P3 C1 C2-A C2-B C3 C5 R0 BG L1 L2 EH CN S1 PR J1 J2 J5

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P1 Input Connector:
3 Pin AMP Universal MATE-N-LOCK Connector UL94V-2 Nylon, mouser part # 571-3504291
P2 Driver Outnput Connector:
4 Pin AMP Universal MATE-N-LOCK Connector UL94V-2 Nylon, mouser part # 571-3504301"
P3 Tweeter Output Connector:
2 Pin AMP Universal MATE-N-LOCK Connector UL94V-2 Nylon, mouser part # 571-3504281
C1 20uF Capacitor:
Sonicap Gen-I 20uF Cap, Can be had here “www.soniccraft.com” (of course you can use any Cap you want but these boards were designed with Sonicap's in mind).
C2-A / C2-B 20uF Capacitor:
Sonicap Gen-I 20uF Cap, Can be had here “www.soniccraft.com” (of course you can use any Cap you want but these boards were designed with Sonicap's in mind, Also if you decide to use a 40uF Cap “Soniccraft doesn't make one” instead 2 20uF Caps you only need to place in one of the C2 spots C2-A or C2-B just leave the other one blank).
C3 12uF Capacitor:
Sonicap Gen-I 12uF Cap, Can be had here “www.soniccraft.com” (of course you can use any Cap you want but these boards were designed with Sonicap's in mind).
C5 5.8uF Capacitor: (NOTE: 4.1 TL Mod Only)
Sonicap Gen-I 5.8uF Cap, Can be had here “www.soniccraft.com” (of course you can use any Cap you want but these boards were designed with Sonicap's in mind).
Resistor in place of a Polyswitch:
Use a Mills MRA-12 0.1 - 0.5 Ohm resistor the value is up to you but a 0.22 Ohm resistor is a good starting point and can be had here “www.soniccraft.com” (of course you can use any resistor you want but these boards were designed with Mills in mind).
BG 2.7 Ohm Resistor:
Is placed at holes B and G, A Mills MRA-12 2.7 Ohm resistor is a good choice and can be had here “www.soniccraft.com” (of course you can use any resistor you want but these boards were designed with Mills in mind).
L1 2.5mH Inductor:
This comes from your original crossover board. It is in the same location and orientation on the new board as it is on the original board.
L2 1.25mH Inductor:
This comes from your original crossover board. It is in the same location and orientation on the new board as it is on the original board.
0.4mH Inductor:
This comes from your original crossover board. It is in the same location and orientation on the new board as it is on the original board. It connects to holes C and N
Polyswitch or Jumper:
If you decide to use a Polyswitch (nasty) or a jumper you can use the legs you clipped off the Resistors or Caps after you have soldered them in.
J1 Jumper:
Solder a jumper here, You can use the legs you clipped off the Resistors or Caps after you have soldered them in.
J2 Jumper:
Solder a jumper here, You can use the legs you clipped off the Resistors or Caps after you have soldered them in.
J5 Jumper:
Solder a jumper here, You can use the legs you clipped off the Resistors or Caps after you have soldered them in.
EH Jumper: (NOTE: 4.1 TL Mod Only)
Solder a jumper between holes E and H (Note: You should insulate this jumper, There is a possiblty that the lead from the 0.4mH inductor that go's to hole C could rub against this jumper), You can use the legs you clipped off the Resistors or Caps after you have soldered them in.
P and R Wires:
These wires connect to the big round 16mH Inductor. NOTE: You can optionly use a 3 Pin AMP Universal MATE-N-LOCK Connector UL94V-2 Nylon, mouser part # 571-3504291, Just don't use the center pin.